1. Preparation
I. Plant in the spring
Plan on planting your pinto beans after the danger of frost has completely passed.
- Pinto beans need soil temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) to germinate properly.
- These plants also need between 80 and 140 days without frost to reach full maturity.
II. Select a planting site that receives full sun
To mature properly, pinto bean plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight per day.
- Make sure that you have not grown other legumes in your chosen planting site within the past three years.
III. Amend the soil
The soil needs to be loose, well draining, and fertile. Consider mixing mature compost into the soil to improve these properties before planting the beans.
- Also note that the soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. If the soil tests below 6.0, add lime or wood ash to raise it. If the soil tests above 7.0, add organic matter like pine needles or peat moss to lower it.
- You can also consider adding pinto bean inoculant to the soil. Doing so is not especially vital, but it often helps the plant fix its own nitrogen more effectively.
- Make sure that the compost and other amendments reach a depth of 6 inches (15 cm) within the soil.
IV. Choose your bean type
Pinto beans come in bush and pole varieties.
- Bush beans are easier to grow but produce a smaller yield.
- Pole beans require the use of a stake, trellis, or similar support system but tend to produce more.
V. Soak the beans
Place the beans you intend to plant in a shallow dish of water and allow them to soak overnight the evening before you plan on sowing them.
- The beans should soak anywhere from 8 to 24 hours before you plant them.
- Soaking the beans will prepare them for germination.
VI. Install a support system, if necessary
If you are planting pole beans instead of bush beans, install a trellis, stake, or vegetable cage before you plant the beans.
-The support system you use should be 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) tall. Ideally, the texture of the surface should be fairly rough since this will make it easier for the vines to climb it.
2. Planting
I. Space the holes 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart
Each hole should be 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep.
- Pinto bean plants do not transplant well, so you should plant the seeds directly in the soil instead of trying to start them early indoors.
II. Sow the seeds
Place one bean in each hole. The eye of the pinto bean should face down.
- For standard or light soils, cover the sown seeds with a loose layer of garden soil. If your soil is notably heavy, though, cover the seeds with sand, peat moss, vermiculite, or mature compost, instead.
III. Water as needed
You should not drench the seeds, but you do need to make sure that the soil is adequately moist to promote better germination.
- Water the seeds well immediately after planting them.
- If you have not received much or any rain, water the seeds a second time three to four days after planting.
IV. Thin out the seedlings
When the seedlings have established themselves, thin them out, leaving only 6 inches (15 cm) or so between them.
- Consider adding a little extra space to this if you are growing bush beans instead of pole beans.
- Pinto beans will usually take between 8 and 14 days to germinate when the soil temperature consistently falls within a range of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 27 degrees Celsius).
3. Daily Care
I. Water sparingly
Allow the soil to dry out before watering the plants again.
- Pinto beans can survive in mild drought, but if the roots become soggy, they can rot away.
- Apply water at the base of the plant, directly to the soil. Avoid getting the leaves wet since this can lead to mildew and similar fungal disease. You should also water early in the morning to allow the plant and soil enough time to dry before the cool dampness of evening sets in.
- Pinto beans should receive an average of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week.
- Withholding water is especially important once the bean pods begin maturing since doing so can help the beans dry on the plant.
II. Apply mulch
Mulch can keep the soil warm for a longer period, thereby extending the growing season. It can also help prevent or minimize weeds.
- Mulch can also help prevent bean pods from rotting if any low growing ones touch the ground, and it promotes consistent soil moisture.
- Black plastic mulch works especially well. Organic mulches, like weathered straw, untreated lawn clippings, and shredded bark are also great choices.
- The mulch should be 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep.
- Add the mulch shortly after the soil has warmed.
- When weeds do pop up, carefully pull them out by hand. These plants have shallow root systems that can be disturbed very easily. It may even be best to simply shave off the top of the weeds using a shallow stroke with a garden hoe. These weeds may re-sprout from the roots, but they will eventually die off, and the roots of the bean plant will ultimately be safer.
III. Fertilize once
Apply a compost tea or similar fertilizer roughly halfway through the growing season.
-The best fertilizers for pinto beans will be rich in phosphorus and potassium.
- Pinto beans provide their own nitrogen, so you should usually avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich. If the leaves begin to pale, though, the plant may not have enough nitrogen, in which case you should apply an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion that can offer a quick dose of nitrogen.
IV. Train the vines
If you have planted pole beans, you will need to train the vines to grow vertically during the first few weeks.
- Tie the vines to the support system you installed using soft twine or small bits of cloth.
- As the vines extend further, tie them higher along the support system. Never stretch the vines to the point of breaking, though.
- After a few weeks, the plant will usually begin to grow vertically on its own and may no longer need training.
V. Look out for pests and disease. Pinto beans are weak against fungal diseases and several pests, including aphids, leaf hoppers, mites, and beetles.
- Prevent most fungal diseases by avoiding wet foliage and waterlogged roots.
- Good air circulation should also help prevent diseases like blights and mosaic disease.
- When you spot pests, use organic pesticide sprays, pick them off by hand, or spray them off with a garden hose.
- Rabbits and deer can also pose a threat to your pinto beans since they eat away the leaves. If these animals start causing problems, install pest netting or fencing to keep them out of your plants.
- Fungicides may be used if you spot signs of fungal disease, but you should select an organic fungicide if you plan to actually harvest and consume the pinto beans later.
IV. Harvesting
I. Wait until the beans dry out
Most pinto beans will reach this stage between 90 and 150 days.
- Bush beans mature at once, giving you a single harvest.
- Pole beans yield several harvests and should be picked regularly so that more beans can grow.
- Note that mature beans can barely be dented when bitten.
- If the weather starts getting damp before the seeds fully dry, pull the entire plant after most of the foliage has already died and hang it by its roots in a well-ventilated, dry location. The bean pods can finish drying this way.
II. Shell the pods
You can shell pinto bean pods individually by hand or in batches.
- To shell the beans in batches, place the pods in an old pillowcase and walk on it for a minute or so, crushing the pods open.
- You can remove the chaff by pouring the beans back and forth between two containers or by letting them sit out in a breezy area.
III. Freeze the beans temporarily. Place the beans in a freezer-safe container and let them sit in your freezer for several hours before transferring them to long-term storage.
- This added step can help prevent problems with weevils and similar pests.
V. Store the beans in a cool location
Place the shelled, cool beans in airtight jars and store them in a dry, cool place, like a pantry or cellar.
- Dried pinto beans will usually last at least one year if stored properly but may last even longer.
